Floating plants can get CO2 directly from the air instead of the water which helps them clean up the water more. I highly recommend grabbing a gravel vacuum to clean your substrate if you have a rocky or sandy substrate. Brown algae also often appears in new tanks before slowly disappearing. How often should we do water changes during this cycling period, and how much? I’m nearing the end of week 2 and my current numbers are Ammonia at 2.0, nitrite at around .5 and nitrate at around 10. Still not a lot of cloudy movement. (I can’t imagine using a razor anywhere near the tank lol; do people really do that?). You should see the nitrates visibly climb on your test over this period. I just trust your judgement more. I’m so relieved that everything appears to be going smoothly and I have my fingers crossed that you reach measurable levels of nitrate soon! Hope to hear your thoughts on what to do next; thanks so much! I’d love to be updated, it will allow me to better help someone else in the same situation, should it arise! It’s possible the cycle and other stressors are responsible for the new rotting areas, assuming you have confirmed the fin-rot isn’t a secondary symptom of another disease, either bacterial or fungal. A quick tip on the test kit, if you take the results and compare the colors in natural daylight, you’ll get far more accurate results. So I did a gravel vac and 75% water change. Unfortunately, from here it’s pretty much a waiting game – while it might test your patience, it will be worth it! Either way, daily or twice daily testing if your tank is a little overstocked, will reveal the course of action you need to take. Also, prime is a cap for 50 gallons- how do you measure what you would dose a 5 gallon tank? Also, remove any uneaten food from the tank, a good aquarium net will make this easy. The moral of this story is follow your gut feeling and spend time finding the right people to talk with before doing anything. I am on day 22 of betta-in cycling a 6.7 gallon tank. Was advised to get a test kit (got the master kit) and started doing 25-30% partial water changes everyday to keep the ammonia in check. Next, do you have a filter? Is the constant water changes stressing Betty out? I’m on day two of fish-in cycling using the “Prime” method on my 4 gallon Betta tank. Also, should I only use prime once daily? I am running 2 HOB Fluval 70’s as well as a Fluval 406 Canister filter. I also recommend swapping out to seachem prime for your dechlorinator, it lasts longer (cheaper in the long run) and treats ammonia spikes. Hello! anyways I literally spend 200$ a week for the last 2 months or so on these dang fish lol I’m obsessed so I am trying to be more mindful of what I buy…. There is a lot of information out there, bad advice, good advice, and so many factors to consider it is refreshing to see a page that brings it all together. You’ll certainly want a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia and nitrite. Do I just continue being patient and the ammonia level will eventually begin to increase, followed by nitrites, then nitrates? Try testing your water straight out of the tap. I washed the old cartridges off in a bucket of the tank water, and washed the new ones in the same bucket of tank water before adding them. Filtration consists of two XL sponge filters and a Ziss Bubble Bio Filter (a liquid filter, new on the market). Do you have any suggestions about what I should do about which kit to use? Other people can be disgusting human beings 🙁. The tank is 10-gallons, gup and corys — would a basic sponge filter like Betta’s be ok? Most fish can last up to a week without food. Zeolite can also “trick you” into thinking your tank is healthy when in fact it’s experiencing an ammonia spike – an ammonia spike is used as a clue that something is not right in your tank and needs fixing. By clean I mean take it out and swirl it in tank water, rubbing lightly at stubborn bits. Congratulations for making it this far, a fish-in cycle is no easy feet and you should be commended on your patience and attention to detail. The remaining gunk will settle on the bottom of your tank, ready for it to be siphoned away the next time you gravel vac. Because of how decorations are sealed, there isn’t a whole lot of surface area for beneficial bacteria to cling to so cleaning them won’t have any real impact on the balance of your tank. Now they have all recovered, the female is out of prison, they all behave, and the water parameters are perfect. We don’t like them trying to trick people. Is it possible the 50% water changes are keeping your nitrites down below measurable levels? I am already using 4 filters in the filter basin. I am new to the aquatic community and I have a 50g tank. Your nitrates should increase the whole time. I feel like I’m stuck. keep doing this until I see nitrites then dose accordingly adding the nitrites + ammo. Also, that is a lot of filtration for a tank your size. Still doing daily water changes to keep the nitrites in check, and I switched to Prime like you suggested. Maybe you could add a section to the article above discussing pH. Thanks Again! It is for this reason that you need to dose regularly with Seachem Prime, to keep these nasties locked up. A quick update: We lost our platy this morning. I will be checking again soon, as now I know who to consult. The pH is at 8 and the water is heated to 80. I recommend buying a master test kit like the one pictured above because it includes all the test kits you need to cycle your aquarium at one low price. Maintenance sucks, I get it. Wipe out Any good bacteria I might have? Can we add 2 more fish? Issue is, no nitrites or nitrates. Either or. It depends, if it’s been over a week then sure. It clings to surfaces. Maybe you have successfully used a fish-in cycle hundreds of times without harm. I often catch myself talking to my fish when no one else is around. Is there a possibility of overdosing (I mean where there’s just “too much” Prime in that same body of water)? Going further, there are different strains of bacteria. Right now, there probably isn’t enough ammonia being produced to kickstart the cycle. But what if you have more fish than should be in your tank? In the wild, fish wouldn’t be hand delivered a tasty meal every day – most aquarium fish can easily last a week without food. Boiling it or adding Oxygen could make the waiting time shorter. They were at 5, now they are around 20ish.. The second beneficial bacteria (nitrite ->nitrate) has appeared and is quickly converting nitrites to nitrate, so quick that it’s keeping your nitrite reading at zero. Have a great weekend! Also one more note, I was testing water am and pm – that was why the light was a challenge. I have my fingers crossed that the whole process goes smoothly for you! Ok. You can eliminate this as a possibility by testing your tapwater prior to adding it to your tank. .75 Nitrites: 2 2. That’s great that you identified a technique that is working for you! Great information, Ian. Once again thanks and best wishes. This time, if your combined ppm of ammonia and nitrite reaches 4, perform a 50% water change. The beneficial bacteria will live in the foam and ceramic rings – consider it their home. I’m going o send a picture of that orange test tube to everyone I know, ha! Hi there! However, she has been just fine and I went in today and noticed she was laying at the bottom again but I believe the last time I wrote you about her I was worried because she was just lying there and I thought she was dying. So we carried on doing the two changes plus the dosing. This way we’ll know id something inside your tank is responsible. When I was just doing water changes (before Prime), it would improve for the afternoon but return in a day or two. I am using a test kit and reading it by my window. In the right sized, correctly stocked tank, your weekly water change should be all that’s needed to stay on top of this. You guessed it, my tap water test came back with 5 ppm for nitrates. Otherwise you may not find it noticeably makes a difference. So again, be patient. I don’t think it has stalled, your nitrites or ammonia would be climbing if it had. Yikes! I have never tried a fishless cycle but I will say that I swear by Tetra SafeStart and will never start another tank without it. Don’t worry, it’s only temporary. I typically do my water changes at night, and therefore use my phone’s flashlight to discern the color. Thank you so much on helping me through this process! Thank you i tested nitrite and it’s light blue 0 ppm and nitrate yellow 0 ppm. Would this really have such a great effect on wether this tank would cycle? You might have to prepare yourself for the possibility that despite doing everything right, you still might lose some – that’s the nature of fish-in cycling and their previous conditions certainly won’t help. I wasnt able to get to a fish store yet but I went to walmart and all they had were tetra strips, I wanted another way to test to see what the readings are. And is it possible that the copper add in my tank from the gate valve would kill bacteria? ⚪ Turn your tailgate into a 'homegate' to cheer on your Hoosiers from home. You should NEVER use Melafix, or even Bettafix on a Betta. I live 4 hours away, so when I met the Sheriff to finally regain possession of the house, I was shocked. I believe it was nitrite poisoning that killed the other two. That also means plenty of clean-up work when removing the eggs to maintain the water quality. then it is indeed the better option to swap over to a fish-less cycle. Also, you have a filter with biomedia/sponge? If I am locking up all the ammonia with seachem prime, how is the good bacteria ever going to grow? The platy and cory catfish seem ok (but I think this is due to the danio being gone since it had a very active and clashing personality). While in the cell, these nasties cannot harm your fish. Prime also claims to stimulate the slime coat, so the theory goes you should be able to swap over to just prime without issue – it does more and is more concentrated. I figured she could put one of those vacation bricks in. I remember when we were cycling the gup tank way back when, ammonia and nitrite never went beyond 0.5 either (hmph, looking at the test results online now, it looks like our ammonia was more like 0.5 than the 0.25 we always thought). Yes, I have an Aqueon QuietFlow 10 filter that has the filter cartridge and a “specialty filter pad” that’s supposed to help remove ammonia. What why would I still be showing nitrites but no ammo and the nitrates are not rising? Yet it seems quarantining is advised? However, I would be surprised if the ammonia was eating by free-floating green algae. Not only that, but a fish-in cycle requires delicate planning and leaves little room for error. If they are then this is where your beneficial bacteria is hiding. That’s correct. You still need to regularly monitor your ammonia and nitrite levels to ensure that nothing goes wrong. That’s why finding a good local fish store, with knowledgeable staff is essential in this hobby – for a beginner, keeping fish is more complicated than it first appears. Have a wonderful new week! Your filter should consist of mechanical filtration ( a sponge) and biomedia (usually ceramic rings) the biomedia is where the beneficial bacteria live. The problem with many of these products is that they are not used in isolation of other solutions, and I have often seen benefits miss-attributed to the product instead of the additional measures taken, such as improving water quality and an improved maintenance routine. However I went about things in a somewhat different way. Don’t forget the activated carbon if necessary! Brought Beta home 12/21. no trace nitrite but about 40ppm nitrate. Just make sure you buy one that is rated for 10 gallons. I’m not sure if I’m doing this properly but my fish seem to be happier now. 🙂 And I skipped the bio on the wc. Though in less quantity, is it usual to have all Ammonia/Nitrite and Nitrate all together in a tank/pond for a week. If I start answering unrelated questions for you then It’s only fair that I do it for everyone. The email you just opened, or link you just clicked, was not sent by FeedBlitz. The beneficial bacteria in your tank are in high enough numbers that they can eat ammonia and nitrites as quickly as they are produced. From here, you can monitor your tank and use the test kit to make the call on how to proceed. There’s easily 20 plus 1/4” or smaller snails in there so I was hoping they’d slowly help with the bioload as well. Had seen this article is the appropriate size for your help, it not... Your swift and helpful support of weeks and I had only mollies for testing lower without me doing anything primafix! 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